Happy Monday! Today I'm sharing a fun tutorial for a Half-Square Triangle Zipper Pouch and Key FOB!
This was originally published as a guest tutorial on the Art Gallery Fabrics Blog.
I love keeping a roomy zipper pouch in my purse to keep some make-up, lip balm, medicine, a nail file or two, and a bit of emergency candy. This pouch is the perfect size for all those little things that end up at the bottom of your bag!
It features half-square triangles, which are covered in the tutorial, so never fear if you haven't made them before!
While we're at it, how about a new key FOB? We'll make two different versions, one plain and one patchwork. Makes it easier to find your keys, plus they're just pretty! (FOB hardware is from
here and turquoise twill tape is from JoAnns.)
Half-Square Triangle Zipper Pouch
If you'd rather make a plain pouch and skip the half-square triangle piecing, you'll need just 2 fat quarter (one for the exterior and one for the interior). Cut all your pieces 6.5"x8.5" and skip ahead to step 14!
Sewing Level: Intermediate
Materials:
- 8 print fat quarters
- 8” (or larger) zipper
- 1/3 yard lightweight fusible interfacing
- 1/4 yard fusible fleece
- Coordinating thread
Finished Size:
Zipper Pouch - 5.5”x7.5”
Cutting:
From all 8 fat quarters:
- Cut (1) 3”x9” strip
- Subcut strip into (3) 3” squares
From 1 fat quarter (lining):
- Cut (1) 6.5”x18” strip
- Subcut strip into (2) 6.5”x8.5” pieces
From 1 fat quarter (zipper end tabs):
- Cut (2) 1.5”x2.5” pieces
From lightweight interfacing:
- Cut (1) 6.5”x17” strip
- Subcut strip into (2) 6.5”x8.5” pieces
From fusible fleece:
- Cut (1) 6”x16 strip
- Subcut into (2) 6”x8” pieces
Pouch Construction:
*Use a 1/4” seam allowance unless otherwise noted*
1. Take any two of your 3” squares, and place them right sides together.
2. Line up a ruler along the diagonal, from one corner to another.
3. Carefully trace a line with a pencil.
4. Sew along one side of the pencil line, backstitch. Turn your square and sew down the other side of the pencil line.
5. Using scissors or a rotary blade, cut down the pencil line, splitting the squares in half.
6. Press your seams open to reduce bulk.
7. Line up a ruler with the HST seam. Trim as little as necessary on both sides.
8. Turn HST and trim the other two sides, this time line up your half-square triangle with 2.5”, trimming the excess.
9. Repeat with the remaining squares to create a total of 24 half-squares triangles. Trim them all to 2.5”.
10. Grab 12 of your half-square triangle units and arrange them into 3 rows of 4 squares each.
11. Stitch blocks in each row together. Press seams in one direction, alternating with each row.
12. Sew rows together, pinning where the seams meet. Press seams open.
13. Repeat with remaining half-square triangles to create another exterior panel.
14. Fuse lightweight interfacing to the wrong sides of both panels. Center fusible fleece on top of the interfacing, fuse in place.
15. Create the end tabs for the zipper by taking the 1.5”x2.5” piece and folding the long sides in 1/4” and pressing flat.
Fold down both short ends 1/4” and press.
Fold in half, matching short edges and press.
16. Cut off the end of your zipper, trimming off the metal end.
17. Nestle your trimmed zipper end in the folded tab. Pin in place.
18. Using a small seam allowance, top stitch the zipper end tab in place.
19. Measure your zipper starting from the end tab and mark a line at 7.75”.
20. Open the zipper past that line and then cut on the line.
21. Pin the zipper closed, and nestle the zipper end in the folded tab. Pin in place and sew the same way as the first tab.
(Note: Zipper with tabs is meant to be shorter than your lining and exterior! It should measure 7.75” long with the tabs)
22. Place a lining piece right sides up on your sewing table. Place zipper right sides up, centered along the top edge, with the zipper pull to the right.
23. Place an exterior panel right sides down on top of your lining and zipper. Line up edges and pin in place.
Tip: I like to do a quick line of stitching using an 1/8” seam to baste when installing zippers. It helps reduce chances of layers shifting while sewing.
24. Using a zipper foot sew along the top edge with a 1/4” seam allowance.
When you get close to the zipper pull, stop stitching and lower your needle. Lift up your foot, removing pins that are in the way, and carefully open your zipper until it’s past the presser foot.
Reposition the exterior panel and repin. Continue stitching to the end, backstitch.
25. Open your pieces so that the wrong sides are together. Press flat.
26. Place remaining exterior panel right sides up on your sewing table. Center it along the top edge of your lining. Place remaining lining piece right sides down on top of your zipper. Line up edges and pin in place. Repeat steps 24-25 for second side of zipper.
27. Open your pieces so that the wrong sides are together. Press flat.
28. Top stitch along the top edge of both sides of the zipper.
29. Place the exterior panels right sides together and lining pieces
right sides together. Fold the zipper end tabs toward the exterior.
**Open the zipper!** Pin.
30. Sew around all four edges using a 1/4” seam allowance (and a walking foot), leaving a 4” opening at the bottom of the lining. You may need to stitch over the zipper area a few times to secure it.
Because the zipper (with the tabs) is .75” smaller than the pouch pieces, you’ll sew right next to the tabs, but not through them. This makes the pouch ends nice and neat.
31. Turn the bag right sides out through the zipper opening. Pull the lining out of the bag. Turn open edges under 1/4”.
Pin and sew the opening closed with a small seam allowance.
32. Stuff lining into pouch and press well.
Tip: You can create a quick pull for your zipper using a small strip of fabric, or ribbon. I cut mine 1/2”x3”. Simply thread it into the zipper pull and tie in a knot.
Voila, your pouch is done!
Key FOBs
Now it's time to make some Key FOBs! You can choose to make either a patchwork or a solid version! You'll have plenty of fabric leftover from the pouch to make both if you'd like!
Sewing Level: Beginner Friendly
Materials:
- 8 different print fabric scraps
- 1/2 yard of 3/4” twill tape
- Scraps of lightweight fusible interfacing
- (1) 1.25” metal key FOB hardware
- Coordinating thread
Finished Size:
Key FOBs - 1.25”x4.75”
Cutting:
For Patchwork FOB:
From all 8 print scraps:
- Cut (1) 1.5”x3” piece
For Solid FOB:
From 1 print scrap:
- Cut (1) 3”x8.5” piece
For both FOBs:
From lightweight interfacing:
- Cut (1) 3”x8.5” pieces
From twill tape:
- Cut (1) 8.5” piece
Key FOB Construction:
*Use a 1/4” seam allowance unless otherwise noted*
1. For Patchwork FOB: Sew (8) 1.5”x3” strips together along the long edges using a 1/4” seam allowance. Press seams open. Strip should measure 3”x8.5”.
2. Fuse lightweight interfacing to the backside of the strip.
3. Fold strips in half lengthwise, placing *wrong sides* together. Pin.
4. Stitch a 1/4” on the long side of each strip. Press, making a crease along the folded edge.
5. Open up the seam and line it up with the crease you just made, pressing the seam open and the piece flat.
6. Place a 8.5” piece of twill tape on top of each strip, covering the center seam. Pin in place.
7. Top stitch along both sides of the twill tape, securing it in place. Trim any excess on the edges.
8. Fold piece in half, lining up raw ends, press. You may choose to have the twill on the outside or inside. Stitch ends together with a small seam allowance, making sure to backstitch.
9. Place raw edge of a folded strip into the hardware.
10. Making sure to keep things in place, cover hardware with a washcloth and use a pair of pliers to close the hardware. You may need to check it and repeat to make sure it’s completely close.
Voila! Enjoy your Key FOB!
Happy Sewing!
